Bayoudog.com | New Orleans Eats

If you want the classic Uglesich's experience, it helps to know the drill.

Once you wedge yourself inside the door, you'll find a tiny room packed with lunchtime loyalists waiting patiently for seats at the ten-table dining area. Grab a menu, decipher its tiny print, and when you're ready, Anthony Uglesich will give you the inside line on the day's catch.

Uglesich's menu is heavy on New Orleans seafood classics and surprisingly sophisticated for a seemingly simple lunch joint. On the first reading, you'll notice decidedly nonstandard dishes like firecracker shrimp (barbecue shrimp topped with horseradish cream sauce) and oyster brie soup. And given Uglesich's wide-ranging reputation for perfectly fried seafood poboys, it makes for a tough midday choice.

That's why it's best to make a few preliminary picks, then ask Mr. Tony for his recommendations. On any given day, there will probably be one ingredient that's particularly fresh or another that's not quite up to his exacting standards. As he hunkers over his order pad, he might talk a little about the weather -- but mostly about how current storms or climate affect his shrimp and oyster suppliers. He's also been known to steer enthusiastic patrons away from one of his simple specialties (fresh cut french fries) because the day's potato shipment didn't pass muster.

Whatever you choose, you'll usually be in for a bit of a wait. As one of the least-kept lunchtime secrets in town, Uglesich's packs early for their daily one-meal serving schedule. Get there early (11:00-11:15 is safe) and you've got a pretty good shot at a quick table -- providing, of course, that an out-of-town group hasn't scheduled a multi-table sampler meal. But even the near-inevitable delay has its benefits, in this case fresh-shucked oysters from the joint's tiny live bar. The nimble oystermen make small talk as their blunt knives flash. "Yeah, these are good today, but not like they were yesterday. When they're that good… they just GO." In between trays of fresh dozens, they shuck for the kitchen, ensuring that the po-boy oysters were nestled safely in their shell seconds before hitting the fryer.

On a recent visit, we braved the crowds, got our number, and settled in for some quality eavesdropping. Doctors, local chefs, lawyers, and a few better informed tourists kept us company before we sat down to a couple of lunchtime favorites -- an appetizer-size serving of marinated shrimp and a cup of seafood gumbo. The shrimp ($4.75) were marinated in a tart vinaigrette, served on crunchy rounds of toasted French bread and topped with a mix of finely minced parsley, shallot and celery. The layers of flavor made for a good balance of rich and cleansing, and the portion size was just big enough to whet the appetite for the entrees to come. The gumbo ($5.50), thick with okra, tender oysters, and shrimp, was almost filling enough to be a meal in itself.

Paul's Fantasy ($14.75), one of Uglesich's wide list of house specials, hit the table with a substantial thud. In this dish, a thick filet of pan-fried trout is covered with coastal homestyle favorites -- tender grilled shrimp (also huge) and crispy griddle-fried new potatoes -- with LOTS of butter thrown in for good measure. We also chose a grilled shrimp poboy (an overstuffed marvel at $8.25) and a side of crispy, hand-cut fries ($2.75). There are many reasons why local chefs revere Mr. Uglesich as a god, and these simple dishes rank high on the list.

Of course, after (over)indulging in one of the classic New Orleans lunch experiences, you'll be faced with a couple of not-so-pleasant old-school traditions -- a cash-only payment policy and table service that can be a bit on the surly side. But if you remember to stock up on folding money and enjoy the ride, the culinary payoff will be well worth the price.